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  #11  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:54 PM
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The majority is going to be black, except the HEMI letters, stripes, and center insert are all going to be yellow. I played around with lots of ideas and I think it would just be way too much yellow to make the cover mostly yellow. Right now, I painted the mesh black, but that might change to yellow to blend in with the insert. Thats easy to paint and I figured the black mesh might look better, but we shall see.

That, and there is no way I'm spending crazy money to try to match Stinger Yellow! (Also... under the hood is not quite Stinger Yellow since there is no clear. Stinger Yellow is a 2 part color. I actually went with Daytona Yellow engine enamel. It's kinda pale and kinda matches the paint under the hood. But with just a few highlights of yellow surrounded by mostly black, I think I can get away with it, lol.
   
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  #12  
Old 11-11-2012, 01:37 AM
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Wicked Wagon Wicked Wagon is offline
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Gonna look good!
   
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:30 PM
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InDeepWaterBlue InDeepWaterBlue is offline
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So far so good Jeff great job, glad I'm not the only one trying to tackle the engine cover, it's going to look awesome when you're done and the YAAAR/T is a great touch!
   
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:38 PM
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Cap10_Morgan Cap10_Morgan is offline
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Thanks guys, spent the rest of the afternoon sanding the primer again. ALMOST ready to start painting, lol.
   
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2012, 05:12 PM
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So... i finally got around to working on the engine cover this weekend. I thought taping was going to be the EASY part. I'm trying to tape off the HEMI letters on the cover, but I can't seem to cut through the tape without their being lots of little strings hanging out, or without cutting too deep and into the primer itself. Anyone have any tips? I'm using the 3M tape I got at Advance Auto. Is there a better tape to use? Less "stringy"?
   
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  #16  
Old 12-10-2012, 06:37 PM
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Sounds like your razor blade isn't sharp enough or not cutting cleanly through the tape.
   
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  #17  
Old 12-10-2012, 07:57 PM
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Its a brand new razor. I had read that you need to kinda go over the tape multiple times, kinda working it until it is cut through. (Rather than a deep cut thats going to cut the material itself.) But when I do that, it ends up with threads stick out. If I push harder, it cuts cleanly, but then it cuts the surface. So I guess if I used the exact same amount of pressure, I could do it, but I'm not a robot, lol.
   
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  #18  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:00 PM
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InDeepWaterBlue InDeepWaterBlue is offline
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Have you looked into liquid mask? It's a great product but can be a bit messy and you will lose a paint brush to it. For regular tape I use regular painters tape and a x-acto knife for model kits, they tend to be sharper IMO and the tiny point is great for tight corners.
   
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  #19  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:22 PM
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Cap10_Morgan Cap10_Morgan is offline
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yeah, i bought an exacto knife. The kind thats like a pen with the one sided blade.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

Ill have to check out this liquid mask.
   
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  #20  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:26 PM
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Cap10_Morgan Cap10_Morgan is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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that stuff looks pretty cool. im going to have to check it out and test it on something. could be exactly what i need. OR... i might just need to keep practicing with the tape until i learn the right touch, etc. thanks
   
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